The book "The Fourth Age of Consumption" divides the world after 1912 into four stages of development: first, to solve food and clothing; second, to emphasize material; third, to pursue psychological satisfaction; fourth, to achieve spiritual prosperity.
We are constantly approaching the fourth stage-when food, clothing and clothing are no longer a problem, spiritual consumption begins to make people addicted.
People pursue novel ideas, satisfy physical agitation, perform spiritual healing, and reshape life experience. Is this a spiritual adventure, or another consumption trap?
We take you to discover the secrets of contemporary young people's spiritual consumption.
Welcome to the topic of Tomorrow's Tide series: "Spirit Pill"-No. 1 Freshman Concept.
At the end of the day's work, the crowded and noisy commuting went away, and a scented candle was quietly lit at the desk. The rustic and stable amber and benzoin burned out the sweet and sour woody fragrance, and the warm air wandered and mixed in an invisible state. Entering the nasal cavity with a touch of joy, the tranquil mood slowly rises in my heart.
Studies have shown that 75% of the emotions that humans produce every day are caused by smells: what we smell is not only the fragrance, but also the emotions, emotions and memories attached to it.
▲ Picture from: unsplash
Now, the emotions, emotions, and memories behind these scents have swept into another, more public form.
The fragrances, fragrances, and perfumes of the past are all rapidly upgrading with a new concept.
They have become 100 novel and interesting stories, the dream and ideal life you desire in your mind, and a new spiritual victory for contemporary urban youth.
The scent of scent hits the spiritual field of young people, and it is echoing with our souls.
Domestic "Mind Catcher" comes with a story
Have you noticed that there are more and more domestic fragrance brands recently?
In the past, the spires of the fragrance market were the sites of Chanel, Dior, and Hermès. Mature brands such as Jo Malone, Diptyque, Byredo, etc. also wanted to grab a place.
But now, domestic fragrance and perfume brands are the rising star. 2017-2018 can be said to be a turning point. In this year, the "Cool White Open" fragrance series of the Odor Library became popular all over the Internet.
▲ The smell library is “cool and white open''.
"Cool white open" is not colorless and odorless. It is a "musk fragrance" that has a rich sense of moisture and restores the metallic aroma from the bottom of the aluminum pot.
With a single spray, it can evoke the childhood memories of young consumers born in the 80s and 90s-with a dry mouth coming home from school, pouring a glass of water from the teapot, and drinking heartily.
▲ The scent library “Big White Rabbit''.
Prior to this, the Fragrance Library worked as an agent for perfume brands for many years. Among them was the American perfume brand "Demeter Fragrance Library", which also translates to "Smell Library" in Chinese. Demeter is known for highly simulating real scents. You can find more than 800 flavors such as snow, storms, paperbacks and linden trees here. The two founders once proposed:
The smell should be an experience. Demeter perfume faithfully records the smell of things themselves, and can convey people's thoughts to different time and space, awakening the memories buried deep.
▲ Demeter storm.
The scent library and Demeter’s concept are obviously similar-put fleeting scents into bottles and jars, and store the memories tied with them. The difference is that when one person is raised by water and soil, one person also creates a perfume.
In January 2019, Guanxia officially entered the game with spar aromatherapy, focusing on oriental plant essential oil aromatherapy. Guanxia does not start with a predetermined scent, but first finds a specific story or scene, and then explores what scent is used to express it. After the rain in summer, Fukaisen Road in spring, and Kunlun Snow Mountain in winter, there are stories that you can find in summer.
▲ Guanxia “Kunlun Cooking Snow'' spar aromatherapy.
Qi Baishi advocates that art "is between likeness and dislikeness." His paintings of various melons, fruits, vegetables, flowers, birds, fish and insects are simple and concise. The domestic fragrance brand that depicts oriental memories also gave me such an impression.
They depict the "complexity" of the Chinese people with scents that come from reality and exalt reality-it may be a symbolic greeting from the old time, or a miniature landscape of the beautiful scene of this land.
▲ Guanxia scented candles.
The fragrance room of the domestic perfume brand RECLASSIFIED, established in 2013, pays great attention to the fusion of smell and culture. Their "Hundred Monsters Series" was inspired by the classics of mountains and seas and the Qi Tan of Kyoto during the Heian era. The "Peking Opera Series" outlines the scent of Shengdan and the final ugliness. The RECLASSIFIED perfume room believes:
Each perfume has its own unique story, and the taste conveys the mysterious and interesting culture of all things.
▲ RECLASSIFIED fragrance room hundred monsters series.
According to the "White Paper on China's Perfume Industry Research" by iResearch in 2020, the global perfume market is about 390.6 billion yuan, and China accounts for only 2.5%. However, due to the high amount of perfume consumer orders and a complete industrial structure supporting the development of the industry , The outbreak of emerging national tide perfume brands and other current situations, the domestic market has huge potential.
▲ 2017-2020 China's perfume market scale and forecast. Picture from: iResearch
Capital is already watching and betting. Since August 2020, Scentooze Santu, Yufan, RECLASSIFIED Fragrance Room, Plustwo Pussy Rabbit and other domestic fragrance and perfume brands that target young consumers have completed ten million yuan angel wheels or Pre- A round of financing.
▲ Consumption of different fragrances. Picture from: CBNData
But in the huge market for fragrance products, it is not enough to connect memories, cultures and stories with smell. The distance between people and fragrance has been shortened like never before, and our way of life has also changed accordingly.
Intangible fragrance, deep into daily life from the story
The demand for smelling fragrance has existed since ancient times, and it has long been closely related to people's living conditions.
In the Renaissance, fragrance represented cleanliness, and nobles used perfume to block the odor. In ancient China, there was a tradition of making tea and smelling the fragrance, "burning the fragrance for tea, hanging pictures and flower arrangements, four kinds of meddling, not suitable for tired home"; research confirmed that lavender promotes sleep, mint To improve physical performance, orange blossom helps calm nerves.
▲ Stills from the movie "Perfume". Picture from: Douban
In the new consumer era where "all products are worth making again", the way that fragrance penetrates into life is somewhat different. More "lifestyle brands" have appeared, in addition to preserving good smell and efficacy, they have transformed our beautiful or curious imagination about fragrance into daily necessities within reach.
Brands that position themselves as "lifestyles" have stepped into the field of fragrance products.
The brutalist, which has grown from a flower shop to an artistic lifestyle brand, has a special "fragrance" category on its official website. It has also been authorized by Warner Bros. to launch the "Golden Snitch" car fragrance. In addition to self-operated products, the Brutalist website has domestic fragrance brand "Bianding", Milan home fragrance brand "CULTI", Korean fragrance brand "Oh, Scent!" and other brands.
▲ Screenshot of the official website of the Fauvism.
Players who specialize in fragrance products want to become a lifestyle brand.
In 2017, the domestic brand handhandhand three-handed fragrance was established. At present, its products have developed into 7 categories, including scented candles, non-fire fragrances, sachets, liquid soaps, car fragrances, and so on. Three-handed fragrance tells Ai Faner:
Consumers can freely choose products according to different moods, weather, occasions, etc. We hope that the aroma can be integrated into any life scene with the help of different products.
▲ Three-handed scented scented candle series.
On November 1, 2020, Swedish fragrance brand Byredo and IKEA jointly launched 13 OSYNLIG scented candles inspired by "The Taste of Home", the fragrance of Byredo, and the price of IKEA. The Swedish word OSYNLIG means "invisible, invisible." The founder Ben Gorham gave this word more meaning:
Most people have the association of going to grandmother's house-whether it is her perfume, flowers or her cooking-smell is a very important part of the home, it creates a sense of comfort and security, but we rarely talk about it . This series hopes that we will pay attention to and think about which fragrance our home will be.
▲ OSYNLIG. Picture from: ELLE
The exterior design is also a stage for lifestyle brands to show their ideas. OSYNLIG's bottle body is made of porcelain, and the color is low-saturation Morandi. It can be used as a pen holder; the flame-free aromatherapy bottle of the three-handed fragrance is embellished with brass metal. Brass is rare. Metal that changes color with time, when placed in the home, it will naturally produce the sensation of time flowing slowly.
▲ Three-handed fragrance without fire fragrance.
Bianding is an incense brand founded in Beijing in 2021. Its packaging style is minimalist with only necessary text. The main feature of the side top is "001 wake up", "002 slow down", and "003 sleep well". The three high-altitude plant incenses cover three subtle life scenes, creating a clean and peaceful smelling experience, with a light and comfortable appearance.
▲ The top line incense.
Fantasy stories, fond memories, poems and distant places… Lifestyle brands materialize these concepts. They appear in the form of more home or portable products, covering all large and small scenes, waiting for consumers to resonate with them.
Fragrance, a new demand for young people’s consumer life
Perhaps as brands expect, more and more consumers are healing themselves with fragrance.
The most commonly used scent products for Xiaoshu are MUJI scented candles and Fauvist spar scents. The good smell naturally makes her feel comfortable:
It can be said to be a kind of spiritual triumphant refinement when you are too lazy to clean up the room.
▲ Fauvism is open and wide-spreading spar.
A Rui likes things that contain traditional culture. For this reason, she bought a few hand-made ancient balm, and gradually began to use it for a long time. The two types of "Ersu Jiuju" and "Elizhang Zhongxiang" are her favorites, which evokes This is her association with the ancient people's lifestyle of "burning incense to lure a quiet walk, and drinking tea to open a clean feast."
▲ Boyu's handmade incense “Ersu Old Bureau''.
Li Hua is used to visiting chain cosmetics stores such as Sephora before placing an order, because there are a variety of brands to try fragrances, and can concentrate on experiencing a variety of good smells.
More importantly, for young people, fragrance products are transitioning from "dispensable" to "just-needed"-not necessarily, but buy as much as possible.
Xiaoshu is accustomed to spraying perfume at home and scenting at home. The frequency of consumption of scented candles is about twice a month; A Rui usually burns incense or aromatherapy before going to bed or when he wakes up, and places an order once a month or two; Li When Hua goes out, he often sprays the scent of Hermès. Before going to bed, he uses Oulong's Promise Oolong or Bulgari's blue. He buys a bottle of formal dress a year, and he buys Q incense and samples more often.
▲ Promise Oolong.
Jin Yu, Investment Director of Tsingshan Capital, once pointed out that "mourning, Buddha, and home" is one of the common characteristics of the Z generation, so it will produce a lot of impulsive consumption, self-pleasure consumption, and emotional consumption. Young people who are "tired to death" come home and are often willing to pay a lot for the "small things" they love.
At the same time, data from the market research company NPD showed that during the epidemic, 51% of consumers used scented candles at home to soothe their emotions; this year's Tmall Global 6.18, home fragrance sales increased by 100% year-on-year.
▲ Three-handed fragrance x Orange Sea co-branded fragrance candle.
Both Sanshou Fragrance and RECLASSIFIED Fragrance Room told Ai Fan'er that their consumers are mainly between 18-35 years old, mostly women, and most of the people with high spending power.
▲ RECLASSIFIED perfume room “Yueluo Guizi'' salon perfume.
DT Finance describes the consumption trend of young people in this way:
Because the perception of uncertainty continues to increase, young people will calculate to spend less money to buy more suitable things. However, young people's consumption also has a seemingly contradictory and perceptual side. These consumptions are mainly for obtaining the emotional value that is urgently needed-at least as important as obtaining a sense of security, so they can jump out of the former judgment framework.
If you use Maslow's theory of needs to interpret, in addition to the underlying physiological and safety needs, young people's needs for love, belonging, mutual respect, and self-achievement have increased.
This kind of demand is fulfilled to consumption behavior, which may be manifested in value economy, interest shopping, and scene consumption. They can often bring a spiritual healing. Fragrance healing is one of the ways, and it is also a new rigid demand for young people's consumer life.
▲ Picture from: unsplash
However, in concrete life, we often don't think so much. What are the most important features? The answers given by Xiaoshu, A Rui, and Li Hua are similar and straightforward—"Smells good, smells good, smells good", and the effect of soothing emotions is natural.
And my scented candle burned almost the amount of late autumn night. Use a toothpick to press the candle wick into the wax oil. The remaining sweet smell in the air is suitable for a peaceful sleep. They will drift silently in the dark, and then completely dissipate in the cool early morning.
▲ The title picture comes from: stills from the movie "Perfume"
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