I was almost killed by Ruixing today, maybe it was yesterday, I don't know.
I took a sip of Luckin's newly returned coconut green ice extract. On the order page of the mobile phone, there is still light: "Strictly select selected young coconuts from Southeast Asia, and only use coconut nuts that meet the standard sweetness" "Ethiopian coffee and sweet and fruity flavors are intertwined, more balanced and refreshing."
This doesn't mean anything, Ruixing can sweeten people to death every day.
The first taste of the coconut green ice extract is the sweet syrup with ice cubes added, reminiscent of Banlangen, Jizhi syrup, and antiviral oral liquid.
Some people say that the coconut green ice extract will taste better after shaking it well. I shake it, and then insert the straw, it seems that the taste is even more strange. It is sweet and bitter, green and greasy, like Chinese medicine in sparkling water, soy sauce in lemonade, Angelababy with Huang Xiaoming, no matter how many tricks there are, there will be no good results.
It doesn't taste like a cup of American style, nor fresh coconut water, and it doesn't seem to please either.
▲ Picture from: Xiaohongshu user @爱生活的coffee dog
The coconut green American style in my memory, the top is American style, and the bottom is pure coconut green water. Drinking the bottom is natural and refreshing, drinking the coffee on the top is full of aroma, and the beauty is doubled after the fusion.
But this cup of "Coconut Green Ice Extract", I drank it all afternoon with difficulty, and I always had a question in my mind:
How much sugar is in this cup of coffee?
When I looked back at the ingredients, there were only coconut water drinks and Yirgacheffe coffee beans. It seems that the problem lies in this coconut water drink. It is not fresh coconut water that flows out of a coconut, it is a drink.
▲ The transparent bottom of the middle is coconut green ice extract
If you want to choose no sugar in the "Brix" – there is no such option, there is only a "no additional sugar".
Take Starbucks as an example. They can choose the number of concentrated coffee, the type of milk can be changed, and they can freely choose to add or replace flavored syrup. Luckin only has the choice of “no additional sugar”, “half sugar” and “standard sugar”. It is indeed concise and direct, but it does not give you the opportunity to refuse sugar (the following are only selected items for comparison).
Ruixing's popular models you can think of are the last stubbornness of Ruixing's insistence on the positioning of Little Sweet. Every time Ruixing's little sweetness falls on the coffee drinker, it is a big sweetness.
Raw coconut latte , with more sugar and hydrogenated oils added to our usual coconut milk.
The coconut cloud latte reminds many people that the coconut milk of the coconut tree brand in their childhood can be so sweet (not a compliment).
Velvet latte , if you don't shake it, the first mouthful of Hokkaido velvet flavor thick milk at the bottom is probably the sweetest milk you've ever had in your life.
Meteorite Raw Coconut Latte doesn't even have the option of "no additional sugar". The lowest sugar content is "light sugar", because the coffee ingredient itself has its own brown sugar flavored crystal balls. It's not bad to be able to drink "pearls" in coffee, and it satisfies many wishes for "additional files", but "micro sugar" is really too sweet.
The minimum sugar level is so sweet that I can't even imagine adding sugar.
In general, each unfortunate coffee has its own unfortunate, but the sweetness of Ruixing coffee is similar.
It's only when I try to get the coffee on top to run down quickly and mix with any syrup below that I can just barely let the bitterness of the coffee dilute the violent sweetness.
It turns out that I may not be buying a cup of coffee with sugar, but a cup of sugar water with coffee.
If you have also drunk milk tea other than Ruixing Coffee, you will have a more thorough feeling for the sweetness of Ruixing.
When you are used to drinking new tea brands such as Heytea and Naixue, and then drink Ruixing's Xiaolu tea, it will seem like you have returned to your student days in an instant. The rich jam in it has a taste full of "value for money".
But it does have fresh fruit and real fruit puree in it. Ruixing does this as if it is telling everyone clearly:
People just want to be sweet. (Have you been sweetened? That's what it feels like)
Here we have to mention Starbucks' Frappuccino line, which is also full of juice concentrates, canned fruits and syrups. It seems that the picture is very rich and beautiful, but it is self-evident which is better than fresh fruit tea.
Although a Luckin employee once told Aifaner that many milk tea shops are difficult to preserve with fresh fruit, and the store’s hygiene is worrying. Considering the preservation and quality control, concentrated juices, canned fruits and syrups are not prone to problems.
But let’s talk about it, no matter how good the jam is, it’s not as good as freshly squeezed. Whether it’s Starbucks or Ruixing, it’s not good, it’s bad.
Every cup of coffee and milk tea is in the hands of every consumer, and the taste is naturally the first.
Sweetness itself is not wrong, sweetness is one of the greatest sources of happiness in life, we need sweetness. And the choice of sweet coffee or bitter coffee is also a personal preference, and there is no right or wrong standard.
But I still want to say, don't overdo it. If you don't have a good grasp of the degree, it's easy to overdo it.
At least, when more and more people have a cup of Ruixing coffee every day, let us have more choices of sweet or unsweetened.
Not to mention, sugar is one of the biggest killers of health.
Once I had no choice, in the future I just want to drink a cup of Ruixing coffee that is not so sweet. Yes, although Ruixing is so sweet, I still have less sweet hopes for its future.
After experiencing the financial fraud scandal two years ago, and then the new head quickly reorganized and turned losses into profits, Ruixing Coffee was "resurrected" again, and it is still the existence of "the leader" in Chinese coffee.
Now, Luckin is the number one coffee chain in China.
It understands the tastes of Chinese people too well – sweetness can be close to the people, sweetness can be popularized, and sweetness is king.
Because the truth is: Chinese people don't like coffee.
The word coffee first appeared in Chinese in China , or in the Chronicle of Four Continents compiled by Lin Zexu. It was only around 1836 that coffee entered China as a consumer product.
But at that time, coffee was expensive and bitter. It was a new thing for the rich to drink, and the common people didn't even know it.
Coffee really began to be enlightened among mass consumers. It was the "1+2" instant coffee launched by Nestle Coffee in 1989, coffee powder + non-dairy creamer + sugar, which made more people brew this "refreshing drink".
Nestle spent a lot of money to popularize "coffee education" on TV, newspapers, carriages, outdoor and other advertising channels. If you are not young, you should still remember the phrase "Nestle, it tastes great" Advertising slogan.
The first time I drank it, it tasted a bit like shabu-shabu water, but after drinking it a few times, it was sweet and delicious.
The popularity of Nestle Coffee is somewhat reminiscent of Luckin today.
Later, Starbucks made a big push, making drinking coffee a petty bourgeois lifestyle in the city.
Some people don’t even drink coffee when they order, they have to take pictures and post them on the Moments, and then inadvertently reveal their brand-name bags. Behind every cup of Starbucks, there is a white-collar worker.
Of course, it is said that when Starbucks opened its first store in Shanghai, the clerk sampled the classic American food on the roadside, and passersby asked back:
Is this Chinese medicine?
For the trend-setters at that time, Starbucks was trendy, sentimental, and a status symbol, which allowed them to ignore the bitterness of coffee.
Starbucks did well in the 21st century when China's economy was developing rapidly. At that time, the expansion rate was also described as "every 15 hours, a Starbucks store opens in China". In 2017, China surpassed the United States to become Starbucks' largest market.
It is not easy to go from cultural service to mass consumer goods.
Today, a large number of coffee brands such as MANNER, OPS, M stand, Sandunban, Yongpu, Lucky Coffee, from creative coffee shops everywhere offline to online ultra-instant freeze-dried coffee, are all creating fresh, Diverse and interesting coffee methods make young people addicted to it.
But the reality is that 95% of Chinese consumers still accept the incompetence of black coffee without sugar and milk.
The penetration of coffee in China is still very low.
According to a Deloitte China survey, the average annual per capita coffee consumption in China is only 9 cups, while an American drinks 329 cups a year.
Luckin’s making coffee milk tea is actually a good way to popularize coffee and open up China’s sinking market.
In a town without bitter coffee, there is the largest space for coffee increment, and there will be more and more young people who will have a cup of raw coconut latte, thick milk latte, coconut cloud latte…
Behind the "sweet coffee" with milk, coconut juice, fruit and alcohol is a new Chinese coffee battle.
Before the Chinese developed the coffee habit, sweetness was the way to go.
However, I think many years later, in the face of more delicious new Chinese coffee, everyone who comes here will recall the sad afternoon when they were almost killed by Ruixing Coffee.
The title picture comes from: China Sports
China Business News Magazine: China's Coffee "Great Leap Forward"
Mantis Observation: A hundred years of Chinese coffee history, telling a story of milk tea
NetEase Digital Reading: Ruixing is resurrected, but its opponent is no longer Starbucks
Yifan YIFAN: Ruixing becomes the public enemy of the milk tea industry
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