Boys want to be beautiful, it shouldn’t be unspeakable concealment|Tomorrow’s Wave

When it comes to boys' beauty, what do you think of?

  • A male anchor drew gorgeous lipstick in the live broadcast room.
  • A male celebrity's white skin and clear blue cosmetic contact lenses in the spotlight.
  • A cross-dressing blogger who took out foundation, eye shadow, lipstick, and cotton pad swaying in front of the camera.

When they frequently appear on mobile phone screens, people may no longer be surprised by a boy wearing makeup.

"The aesthetic awakening of Chinese men is the most important change in the world's cosmetics industry in the past 20 years," said Chris Krakowski, president of the brand creative agency Air Paris China .

But this does not mean that in reality, most men are beginning to show the most poses of themselves as above, wearing the most shining makeup.

In fact, men's beauty is becoming popular now, in another lighter and more natural form.

When boys' beauty is "demonized", more and more new brands are trying to break the gender barrier and get boys' beauty back on track.

In fact, no matter what form of beauty comes in, people just want to make themselves look better.

▲ Picture from: Li Ran

Skin care, make-up, medical beauty, male beauty is on fire

When it comes to men's makeup, the first thing many people think of is men's makeup.

In fact, in a broad sense, beauty includes all the ways to make people beautiful by external means. In a narrow sense, it includes beauty and makeup, covering skin care, color makeup, medical beauty and other fields.

Air Paris divides boys' beauty into five different stages :

  • Grooming: basic hygiene items (shaving, deodorant, shower gel, perfume)
  • Skin maintenance: basic items for basic comfort and appearance (cleanser, moisturizer)
  • Basic skin care products: general items (sunscreen, anti-acne products, lotions, facial masks)
  • Advanced skin care: specialized products (essences, eye creams, supplements)
  • Color: niche cosmetics (lipstick, concealer, foundation, eyebrow pencil)

▲ Picture from: Dear boyfriend

Previously, many boys have been properly "exquisite boys" in the third stage. Now more and more new men's beauty brands are beginning to take people directly to the fifth stage-in a more comfortable way.

[Healthy and natural skin care for boys]

Skin care is the main category of most men's beauty brands, and it is also an "entry-level" field.

The 21-year-old hyaluronic acid giant Huaxi Bio, finally launched the men's skin care brand Kean last year. Their brand vision is very "gender inclusive" and adopts a neutral red and white style.

▲ Picture from: Ke An

The advantage of Ke'an products is that it uses patented technology to solve male skin problems and conveys to male consumers:

Skin care is not exclusively synonymous with women.

Because boys are also troubled by skin problems. For example, the three core problems are: excessive oil, blackheads, and enlarged pores.

When people use "tough guys" and "rough" to preach traditional masculinity, and use words such as "niangpao" and "mother-in-law" to contradict men's skin care, it is actually easy to conceal the problems that also occur with boys' skin.

From the oil-control and moisturizing lotion essence, cleansing and moisturizing facial mask, to the hairline nutrient solution for men, it can be seen that they did not copy the logic of female skin care products, but took a pragmatic route to directly solve the pain points of boys. .

Of course, another new consumer brand for men's personal care is trying to strip away the single and one-sided impression of men from the product to the promotion.

▲ Picture from: Li Ran

It was established in 2019, and it has raised up to 6 rounds of financing. Their products are very diverse. The skin care products range from facial cleanser and cleansing spray, to the essence combination of anti-acne and skin peeling, as well as sunscreen, isolation cream, repair cream, etc. .

They want to make skin care "a matter of course". Different men can find suitable products. The "voice" behind these products is: Men should have more aesthetics and choices, and they should also have more abundant and diverse products. temperament.

▲ Picture from: Li Ran

Is it not enough to become a traditional "successful male image"? Refusal to be included, refusing to be defined, this is also a kind of MAN.

This is one of the interpretations of masculinity by the anchor Shi Xiuxiong in the first domestic masculinity-themed blog "Man Li".

When we move towards a certain ideal image, we are actually pursuing a kind of self-identification, and this kind of identification is naturally more than one kind.

[Men's make-up for simple and un-faced makeup]

When boys move from skin care to make-up, they also face more criticism.

Because its products are usually foundations, eyebrow pencils, BB creams, lipsticks, eye shadows, nail polishes that many people think are exclusive to women…

Most of the domestic men's beauty brands have "makeup lines", but they all choose the "invisible makeup" route unanimously.

For example, Kean, Li Ran, Left Yan Right Color, Dear Boyfriend, etc. have all launched the soothing cream/no make up cream, the main function is to brighten the skin tone and eliminate blemishes (dark circles, large pores, acne marks, peeling, etc.). And there is no need to remove makeup, which solves one of the biggest problems that men think of makeup: trouble.

▲ Picture from: Dear boyfriend

Of course, no-face cream can not solve all the needs of concealer.

Dear boyfriend is also a cutting-edge men's grooming brand in China. There is also a BB cream under their cosmetics category, which can cover deeper blemishes for different skin types than plain-face cream.

The blue line is a little more in this category, in addition to the BB cream that is the main "naked makeup", there are also eyebrow pencils and beauty eggs.

▲ Picture from: Blue Series

In order to make make-up more acceptable, the slogan of BB cream is "You can't see the makeup" and the slogan of the eyebrow pencil is "Easily draw natural eyebrows." Draw a "tough" sword eyebrow:

At first, I didn't know how to paint. One time when I was at the same table and asked, my eyebrows are not hairy, why are they so dark? To be honest, it was so embarrassing. Now my eyebrow pencil can draw a natural plush feeling, and no one talks about drawing my eyebrows anymore.

In addition, most brands will almost launch one-stop skincare and make-up kits, just to make boys more "lazy" as possible. Of course, the founder Huang Weiqiang once said :

Men have a significant "buying habit of family buckets", and they hope that one brand can solve all problems.

▲ Picture from: Li Ran

Of course, there are also some foreign men's beauty brands that are more wild and open in color makeup.

American male beauty brand Faculty wants to redefine "masculinity." Last year, it launched black, gray, and dark green nail polish and nail stickers to provide more dressing options for Gen Z men. Once launched, it quickly sold out.

▲ Picture from: Faculty

However, at this stage, the country is still trying make-up for the first time, and it is not so extreme and bold, and the brand usually focuses on skin care, supplemented by make-up.

[Wohen's handsome male medical beauty]

In addition to skin care and beauty makeup, in the past two years, more and more men have become an important group of medical beauty, and there may be boys around you who have done micro plastic surgery.

According to iResearch's "Research Report on China's New White Collar Consumer Behavior in 2020 ", the proportion of men in the medical aesthetics population has reached as high as 30%.

They usually perform operations such as hair transplantation, eye bag cutting, double eyelid cutting, botulinum toxin treatment to remove wrinkles, and thermage anti-aging process.

▲ Musk in 1999 and Musk now

A Feng, a 30-year-old marketing publicist, has undergone two medical aesthetic operations, one is to cut double eyelids, and the other is to treat wrinkles with botulinum toxin + fill with hyaluronic acid.

He told Ai Fan'er, "Every time I choose to do it on the small holiday, because I don't want to be seen by others."

The doctors of the medical aesthetics institution also told him that boys who come to cut double eyelids all hope that there will be no traces of plastic surgery, but girls will be different, and some will want double eyelids to be more obvious, so that their eyes will be bigger and better after makeup.

Afeng said that he has two male friends who have hair transplanted. "If you don't ask, you will be single." Afeng said:

Who wants to find a boyfriend who is bald at a young age? But now there are more and more boys who stay up late to lose their hair.

In addition to the more popular medical beauty platforms such as Yuemei, Xinyang, and Gengmei, some men's grooming brands have also begun to try to dabble in medical beauty.

▲ Picture from: MANUP Lipai

"MANUP Lipai" has opened a number of stores in the Yangtze River Delta . They mainly help boys cut hair, shave, and eyebrows offline. As the men’s beauty market grows larger, they are also preparing to enter men’s medical beauty and hair transplantation. field.

When people believe that the US medical only girls will do, many people may not know, the world's first recipient of the modern sense of plastic surgery , in fact, male.

Although men's skin care, make-up, and medical beauty are not yet fully popularized, this "male beauty style" has already rolled up.

▲ Picture from: MANUP Lipai

When the male aesthetic consciousness begins to awaken….

Get up in the morning, wash your face, apply toner, essence, sunscreen, draw eyebrows, and apply concealer; exercise for one hour every day after get off work, practice four equipment; wash your face, apply toner, essence, cream, eye cream at night, and go to bed.

This is an ordinary day for the 32-year-old ByteDance employee Dahe.

He said he was still a novice in beauty makeup, but when his hometown classmates gathered, many of his classmates already had a beer belly and started to lose hair. They often praised him for being so young and keeping his figure so good. Dahe smiled and said to Ai Faner :

They don't know how much time and money I spent.

There are more and more boys like Dahe-boys born in the 90s and 00s pursue exquisite skin care, and boys over 30 pay more attention to anti-aging .

▲ Picture from: Men's trendy grooming brand "Tabula Rasa"

Recalling the old school days, some boys would quietly use some girls’ cosmetics, but most boys just clean their faces: Who hasn’t put in a drawer a facial cleanser with the prefix of mineral mud, volcanic mud, and seaweed mud? ?

In fact, it wasn't until the 1920s that men's beauty began to appear. At that time, foreign brands such as Nivea, L'Oreal, Coyan's, Shiseido, Mentholatum, etc., successively launched the first men's series .

At that time, men's beauty products had no choice. At first glance, they were all in black and white ash packaging, mixed with the blue of the ocean, the red of the volcano, the green of the seaweed, and there was water splashing on the face of a muscular model.

But they can also be said to be "enlightenment mentors" for men's skin care.

Since the beginning of the 21st century, my country’s men’s beauty market has almost been occupied by these foreign brands. Domestic domestic men’s beauty brands have just started, such as Lei Di, Wu Zun, Sharpness, Jasper, etc., but they have not attracted much attention since then. .

Until recent years, international big names Chanel, Armani, and Sephora have all begun to launch their first men’s beauty series, and domestic traditional full-category beauty brands have also launched men’s beauty products. A large number of new men’s consumer brands have emerged. It really blows up.

▲ Chanel's first men's cosmetics series Boy de Chanel

The boys also started to try skin care from basic cleansing, and advanced to make-up and medical beauty.

The popularity of China's male beauty market can be seen in the data and reports:

▲ Picture from: Screenshot of Xiaohongshu app

In addition to the development of "other economy" and the general trend of male consumption upgrading, the reasons that promote the hot beauty of men are also inseparable from these factors:

1. The rise of e-commerce platforms makes placing orders no longer embarrassing

People can choose products online, and there will no longer be a man blushing at the beauty counter who walks to the cabinet and hesitates to buy eyebrow pencils and foundation for his girlfriend.

2. Social media promotion, the value of appearance is beginning to be valued

Whether it’s on Xiaohongshu, Douyin, Zhihu, or even Hupu, all kinds of men’s skin care makeup tutorials, science popularization, and bloggers are endless. Let alone open Weibo, the ads that bring in the eye are the makeup endorsements of various male celebrities. brand.

3. Social perceptions change, gender stereotypes are dispelling

When middle-aged men who are "so ordinary and confident" are hotly debated; when the definition of male "masculinity" is questioned and dismantled; when a macho man "backs on loess and faces the sky" is no longer the only criterion; when After repeated gender disputes, people finally return to their own rights-

The way to make people better should not be restricted by gender.

▲ Picture from: Dear boyfriend

Can beauty really be "genderless"?

Regarding "genderless beauty", current men's beauty products may not be the ultimate "utopia."

In that imaginary place, men’s makeup should not only be “natural”, “no trace”, and “pseudo-makeup”, but it should break the boundaries of all women’s exclusive cosmetics in the past. Both men and women can let go of the beast in their hearts and choose the most desired image. ,be the real you.

It’s just too early to break the boundaries.

▲Picture from: Hims

Gender prejudice is a worldwide problem, and it still exists in many countries. Ke'an general manager Wang Ruibin said in an interview with Ai Faner, "Asexuality is a bit more difficult in China. After all, China's traditional concept since ancient times is that men and women are different. ".

The post-90s generation has begun to set off a new wave of consumption, but the post-80s and post-70s generations currently dominate the consumption in the Chinese market.

Male beauty is not that important in the eyes of these two generations, and it will take some time to eliminate gender prejudice.

Although the field of men's cosmetics is growing rapidly, most boys are still new to skin care at this stage, and they can't even distinguish the name of the product, let alone what ingredients and steps are used.

In fact, skin care should not be divided into men and women at all, but should be classified according to factors such as skin type and region.

Wang Ruibin said.

▲ Picture from: Dear boyfriend

He revealed to us that Kean, which is specifically for men, will actually have female consumers who know what suits them; and some men will also buy female-oriented skin care products under Huaxi Biologics as a supplement.

However, most skin care brands now focus on gender and are divided into women's skin care brands and men's skin care brands. From the perspective of the entire industry, this itself is a solidified and traditional thinking, but it will be difficult to change for a while.

Regarding make-up and medical beauty products, many men’s brands have also tried their best. However, before selling products, how to get most men to accept beauty makeup and develop a habit is still the tallest fence.

Therefore, when people look forward to beauty products that have no gender boundaries, they must first be firmly established in the male market.

▲ Picture from: Ke An

From the field of male skin care alone, there are many areas for improvement. In Wang Ruibin's view:

  • Now many imported men's skin care brands are not studying the skin characteristics of Asian/Chinese people. In the early stage, it is a long way to make men's skin care products according to different geographical groups.
  • Many categories of existing men's basic skin care have not been fully penetrated in the Chinese market, and there is still much room for expansion.
  • Regarding the latest skincare scientific research technology, some international big names are in the initial application period, and Huaxi Biology is also in the laboratory stage, and the ingredients are the same. If it can be applied to domestic products simultaneously, China will have a chance to come out in the next few years. From the point of view of efficacy, formula, and actives, they are very good men's skin care brands.

Existing men's beauty brands are also looking for different breakthroughs from their own brand positioning.

They make the design of traditional men's beauty products trendy, tell the views and stories that break gender prejudice, and promote the direct-to-consumer (DTC) model to cater to and change the consumption habits of men, extending from skin care, cosmetics, and medical beauty. To male health care, body care…

▲ Picture from: Dear boyfriend

Regardless of design, publicity, technology, category, sales model, etc., men's beauty has a lot of room for further research and innovation.

It's always difficult to get started.

These men's beauty brands are watching the changes and iterating rapidly.

At the same time, gender boundaries are blurring and flowing at the edges of topics and disputes.

When more and more boys place orders for new beauty products, in fact, they have also purchased the diverse aesthetics, inclusive attitudes, and self-pleasing ideas conveyed by the brand, projecting the ideal image and lifestyle that they have approached in their hearts.

When this ideal feeling really has nothing to do with gender, only with oneself——

Genderless beauty will become popular, and men's beauty will disappear.

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