——Why is my breast so big?
——(Almost spewing rice) This is an advantage.
——But I feel so annoying.
This is a conversation between my high school classmates and parents during dinner. This also reflects from the side the cognitive differences between big breasted girls and others that affect their breasts.
As a girl with big breasts, although I laughed unkindly after listening to this sharing, I also understand her troubles.
Due to the lack of adequate sex education, the significant growth of the breasts during the developmental period is very embarrassing; and the support ability of underwear for peers will basically make the physical education class into torture. I just went to middle school and I have worn the same brand as my mother Similar styles of underwear.
When I grew up, I found that there were not many choices of underwear brands on the market. More importantly, it is not easy to buy comfortable underwear, even if you have tried it before you buy it.
Probably the big breasted girl knows how happy it is to have a suitable underwear.
The toffee pie chief designer Apu sighed. Toffee Pie, established in 2015, is a company that designs underwear for CK cup women. In November 2020, the annual sales of Toffee Pie has exceeded 100 million yuan, and it is firmly in the big cup bra and girl bra category. Product first.
▲ Toffee Pie's best-selling product "Slightly Sweet"
Contrary to the "no size" minimalist selection model advocated by Ubras, toffee pie further refines the size and cup shape on the basis of traditional underwear, and integrates architectural thinking into product design, in order to let "variable" More girls with big breasts get more support.
Making underwear is a technical job. Toffee Pie decided to start with the size system.
Generally speaking, when buying underwear, we need to measure the upper and lower bust parameters, and then we can put them into the calculation formula of different brands to calculate the size. (Yes, the calculation formula is different between different brands).
In fact, this also reflects that traditional underwear looks at the state of the chest from a relatively static dimension.
In order to help users choose the appropriate underwear size more accurately, Toffee Pie has created a set of its own "breast size system", which uses seven data and three breast sizes to determine the state of women's breasts. The seven data include:
- Two data of the lower bust under the tight state;
- The upper bust data when the body is upright, bent over 45 degrees, and bent over 90 degrees;
- The width of the left and right chests;
With these data, users can use the online "Candy Pie Size Assistant" to convert their own size, or they can go directly to the toffee pie offline experience store for measurement.
The data and considerations with richer dimensions are all for the purpose of "arranging troops" on materials more effectively during design.
For Apu, a designer who has a background in architecture, each part of a small bra has a clear function and incorporates the structuralism of architecture:
Many people think that underwear support only needs to rely on steel rims. In fact, steel rims only play an "enclosure function". Supporting is based on the setting of the focus point of the underwear, the design of different areas of the cup, and the fit of multiple dimensions. Gravity support for the dynamic process of the chest.
She will not only think about how to spread the weight of her chest evenly and comfortably over the whole body, but also consider that her chest will change with exercise or even breathing.
In addition, Apu also applied the "light and shadow principle" in architecture to achieve the effect of "big breasts show small".
On the market, many bras that claim to be "big breasts look smaller" are squeezed to achieve the corresponding effect, and they are not comfortable to wear. The toffee pie products are designed to create a small breast visual effect by reducing the arc of the cup and bowl and straightening the cup surface.
Under this system, Toffee Pie has developed 49 exclusive cup shapes and 54 sizes to serve women of different breast shapes and sizes.
Because of the complexity of product sizes and cup shapes, the existing foundries on the market cannot meet their needs. Toffee Pie established its own flexible underwear factory in Shenzhen in 2017.
Turn users into their own employees, closely connected with customers
Toffee pie can be said to be a brand that grew out of the Douban team.
The founder of the toffee pie "Da Bai" is a man. The reason why he has an indissoluble bond with underwear has to go back to when his wife was pregnant and breast milk. He was troubled by not being able to find suitable underwear and found out that he could not find suitable underwear. There is a gap in the market segment of breast underwear.
▲ The founder team of Toffee Pie
Later, he shared his entrepreneurial philosophy in Douban's bra group. Not only did he get to know many female users who used to buy foreign brands and tried and researched, he also found his own entrepreneurial partners, employees and seed users .
It is reported that when toffee pie created the first generation of products, it also brought together more than one hundred members of the most active community, and worked with designers to create products that everyone thought was good enough.
Up to now, each toffee pie product still needs to go through more than 20 rounds of tests before it is born, and the approval rate of upper body tests by hundreds of people has reached more than 70%. Moreover, the scale of the first batch of production will also be controlled to a small extent, starting to adjust according to feedback 3-6 months after the launch, and then adjusting again every other year or so.
The development history of the toffee pie brand also determines its DTC (face-to-consumer) gene. It is reported that 70% of the employees in the Toffee Pie team are already loyal users of Toffee Pie before joining. Da Bai once shared that the annual repurchase rate of toffee pie is about 35%.
In addition, Toffee Pie is now building a consulting team to provide users with detailed underwear consulting and wearing guidance services through both online and offline methods.
In 2019, Toffee Pie opened its first offline experience store in Guangzhou, and I also experienced it some time ago.
When I arrived at the store according to the appointment time, the clerk did not help me with the measurement at the beginning, but first learned about my usual dressing habits according to the list, the type of bra that I want to buy, my preference for lace material, etc. aspect.
In the process of testing the data and trying on underwear, I can feel the clerk's attention to the customer's emotions.
For example, in the process of trying on, when the clerk needs to help me adjust the position of my chest and underwear, he will first explain that her hands will directly touch my chest, mainly to adjust the position of the chest, and then adjust;
In addition, the process of trying on underwear makes me feel like I have entered a "boast group"-during the period of trying on different underwear, every time I wear a relatively standard, I will get praise from the store staff: "Yes, you It’s very well dressed, just adjust the position of the steel rim and it’s great.”
After completing the test and try-on, I obtained a test report of toffee pie via WeChat, which listed my seven data, and recorded my suitable size in the different series of toffee pie products.
Based on this report, I don’t have to worry about size anymore when I choose toffee pie products online.
It is reported that between 2022-2024, toffee pie plans to enter 100 cities across the country, and establish various forms of experience stores according to local needs, and cooperate with universities and research institutions to popularize science and knowledge of breasts.
The new story of Chinese women's underwear has just begun
According to "Cinda Securities: 2019 Women's Underwear Special Report", the domestic underwear industry has only officially started in the 1980s;
In 1996, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology and Aimo Underwear Co., Ltd. jointly established China's first professional ergonomics research institute, specializing in the research and development of body-sculpting products for Chinese women;
Until a few years ago, many domestic underwear brands directly used foreign styles and sizes to make products, and very few made products specifically for Chinese women.
According to Euromonitor statistics, the market concentration of TOP5 brands in China's underwear market in 2018 was only 6.6%, while the concentration of TOP5 brands in Japan, the United States and other countries exceeded 40% in the same period. At the same time, the number of Chinese women with bras per capita is increasing year by year. This means that the Chinese underwear market is still a blue ocean.
Now, domestic DTC underwear brands represented by Toffee Pie, Ubras, Jiao Nei, and Inner and Outer are all approaching young people with Internet thinking, and are beginning to provide consumers with more choices. When talking about underwear design, Apu said:
I have never regretted not becoming an architect. Am I now doing physical architectural design for every young woman? This seems more challenging.
Indeed, underwear is small, but the challenge is not small.
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